Hyde Streamstay One

Introduction

The Hyde Streamstay One was the first modern furling system. Designed by Tim Stearn and introduced in 1971, it is still in use on thousands of yachts worldwide. The popularity of the Hyde system was largely due to the large charter boat operations, who embraced it early on for its bulletproof nature, easy maintenance attributes, and its unmatched reliability.

Occasional bearing replacement (on average about 8 years), and periodic inspection are all that is necessary to keep this system in top form indefinitely.

Although new systems are still being made, we frequently get calls from people who bought a used one or who found a system abandoned in a boatyard. Usually all these systems need is a bearing replacement kit or a shortening kit to put them back in use on a new yacht – which they will probably out-last as well.

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Features

Solid Rod Design -- means less stretch, less windage and greater strength.
- Forestay rod of 6061-T6 aluminum stretches far less than a wire headstay – less even than stainless steel rod rigging. Less stretch means less headstay sag and greater sail efficiency.
- High Torsional strength of the rod is equivalent to hollow sectional systems many times larger in diameter. This smaller diameter is much more efficient aerodynamically – resulting in less windage and more efficient sail performance.
- Solid rod is much stronger and more impact resistant than hollow systems. An impact from a spinnaker pole that would deform the luff grooves of a sectional system –making it impossible to raise or lower a sail- will not affect the rod. Even the travel-lift can't hurt it.
Round rod profile furls easier than any non-round section. "Rounds roll".
Stainless Steel Terminal Ends: Type 316 Stainless Steel rod end components are machined from solid bar for strength, reliability and a virtually permanent life span. End fittings are permanently attached to the rod, but are reusable in the event that a system needs to be shortened, or the rod replaced.
Drum, Drum Cover, & Halyard Swivel: Cast from high-strength, lightweight, Almag 35, these fittings are machined and hardcote anodized for long term corrosion resistance.
Low System Weight: This combination of innovative design engineering and careful selection of materials results in a furling system that weighs less than any sectional system available today. Less weight -- especially in the ends of the boat and aloft -- translates directly into increased boat performance.
Easy Maintenance: Occasional bearing replacement (on average about 8 years), and periodic inspection are all that is necessary to keep this system in top form indefinitely.
Unmatched, Proven Reliability: For almost 30 years the Hyde System has been in production, virtually unchanged from its original design. Thousands of boats all over the world are still sailing with their original Hyde system, many are entering their 2nd or 3rd decade of continuous service.

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HYDE SYSTEM SIZES
Hyde #	8	9	10	12	16
Rod diameter	9/16"(.570)	5/8"(.678)	3/4"(.752)	7/8"(.862)	1 1/16"(1.070)
Equivalent wire size	1/4	9/32"	5/16"	3/8"	1/2"
Luff tape size – single groove	#5	#6	#8	#8	#10
Luff tape size – double groove	--	#4	#5	#7	--
Rod breaking strength (lbs.)	8,200	10,300	12,500	17,600	29,500
Rod weight per foot (lbs.)	.236	.330	.398	.546	.830
Weight of Terminal End (lbs.)	0.9	1.5	1.5	3.6	3.6
Maximum system length (pin to pin)	41'	51'	63'	65'	65'
Drum diameter (Maximum OD)	5 5/8"	6" *	6" *	7 1/2" **	7 1/2" **

* Additional sizes: 4 5/16", 5", & 7 5/8" available.
** Optional Large size: 9 1/2" available

HYDE

#9 / #10

#12 / #16

3/8"

1/2"

5/8"

B (std)

7/16"

1/2"

5/8"

3/4"

4 1/8"

3 7/8"

5 3/4"

7/8"

1 1/8"

3/8"

1/2"

2 1/8"

2 3/8"

2 15/16"

5/8"

7/8"

3/8"

1/2"

5/8"

1 5/8"

1 7/8"

2 1/2"

3/8"

1/2"

1 5/8"

1 3/4"

2 7/16"

7/8"

5/8"

3/4"

5 3/8"

7 5/8"

4 1/4"

6 1/4"

1 9/16"

1 7/8"

V(pin to rod end)

6 1/4"

6 3/4"

9 3/4"

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Parts Breakdown

Part #
28 -- Top deck eye	Hyde# * -28
27 -- Drive lock pins	Hyde# * -27
26 -- Top Barrel Housing	Hyde# * -26
25 -- Compression Sleeve	Hyde# * -25
24 -- Dowel Pins (1 or 2 per end)	Hyde# * -24�
23 -- Luff Rod	Hyde# * -23�
22 -- Halyard Cover Screws (8 or 12)	Hyde# * -22
21 -- Halyard Swivel Top Cover Plate	Hyde# * -21
20 -- Snap Ring	Hyde# * -20
19 -- Halyard Swivel Core	Hyde# * -19
17 -- Halyard Swivel Bushings - Delrin	Hyde# * -17�
16 -- Halyard Swivel Bottom Cover Plate	Hyde# * -16
14 -- Halyard Swivel Bearings (2)	Hyde# * -14
13 -- Halyard Swivel Body	Hyde# * -13
12 -- Tack or Head Fastpin (2)	Hyde# * -12
11 -- Drum Cover Screw (2 or 4)	Hyde# * -11
10 -- Drum Screw (4)	Hyde# * -10
9 -- Furling Drum	Hyde# * -9 (specify dia.)
7 -- Tapered End	Hyde# * -7
8 -- Furling Drum cover	Hyde# * -8 (specify dia.)
6 -- High-torque Lock Nut	Hyde# * -6
5 -- Barrel End Set-screw	Hyde# * -5
4 -- Barrel House Bearing	Hyde# * -4
3 -- Bottom Barrel Housing	Hyde# * -3
2 -- Oil Seal	Hyde# * -2
1 -- Bottom Deckeye	Hyde# * -1
1 For double groove system, add -D to part #. 2 Specify split or whole. For #12 and #16 systems also specify bushing OD (1 1/4" or 1 1/2"). *Note: To get complete part number, put your system size where the is. E-mail us at hyde@rigrite.com for price & availability.**

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Bearing Replacement Kits

With a little easy maintenance and occasional bearing replacement, your Hyde System should last several lifetimes.

Bearing replacement kits are available in three configurations:

Terminal Ends Bearing Replacement Kit	*Hyde# -31**
This kit has all materials needed to replace bearings in both ends, including screws, allen wrenches, special high-torque locknuts, bearings, ultra high-pressure bearing grease, loctite, oil seals, and instructions. No special tools are required.
Halyard Swivel Bearing Kit	*Hyde# -32**
This kit has all materials needed to replace bearings in the Halyard Swivel, including bearings, snap ring, and ultra high-pressure bearing grease. However you will need a large pair of snap ring pliers to complete this replacement.
Complete Bearing Replacement Kit	*Hyde# -30**
This kit has everything included in the two kits above.

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Shortening Kits

Shortening Kits are used to reduce overall system length, when modifying the rig or transferring the system to another boat. It is the upper end that is usually shortened so as not to change the height of the sail feed entrance.

Shortening Kit	*Hyde# -33**
This kit has all materials needed to shorten one end, including compression sleeve, dowel pin(s), drive lock pins, special epoxy, instructions, and a new tapered end. (Credit will be issued for the old tapered end, if reusable, upon return.) Specify single or double groove system.
A press and special dies are required to complete the shortening process. Your local rigger may have these tools available, but if not, both items are available for rent.

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Accessories

Heavy Duty Jaw/Jaw toggle

Heavy Duty Eye/Jaw toggle

Heavy Duty Link Plates

Wire/Rope Furling Line

To keep drum sizes to a minimum, Hyde systems are optimized for use with wire/rope furling lines. Tail-spliced, like a halyard, these furling lines come with stop & oval sleeves for attachment to the drum with a nicopress tool. Trim the wire length to the distance from the cockpit to the furling drum, making sure the wire is short enough that it doesn't come into your hands in your normal furling position. Overall length, after trimming, should be approximately twice the boat length for large genoas in average installations.

Hyde System	Wire/rope sizes	Hyde Part #	Std. Lengths wire/rope
#8	1/8"/ 3/8"	fl 46-3030 fl 46-3040	30' / 30' 30' / 40'
#9 / #10	5/32"/ 3/8"	fl 56-3040 fl 56-4050	30' / 40' 40' / 50'
#12	3/16"/ 3/8" 3/16"/ 7/16"	fl 66-4050 fl 67-5050	40' / 50' 50' / 50'
#16	7/32"/ 7/16"	fl 77-5570	55' / 70'

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Troubleshooting

The standard considerations in all furling system installations are:

Halyard angle -- angle should be aft of parallel to the luff when the sail is fully hoisted. On many masthead arrangements this will require a halyard pullback device installed on the mast. (See Accessories)

Halyard Swivel Height -- halyard swivel should be within 12" of the halyard sheave when the sail is fully hoisted. On shorter sails, this will require a wire pennant attached to the sail at the top (for performance), or at the bottom (for visibility). To check Halyard Swivel height, or to measure for a pennant, carefully hoist the Halyard Swivel with the sail attached to it, but not attached at the tack. When sail is fully hoisted measure from the tack of the sail to the tack pin, or shackle, on the furling drum. Pennant should be 6–12" shorter than this measurement and preferably, attached directly to the sail.

Furling line angle -- furling line should enter the drum at 90 degrees to the luff. This is achieved by adjusting the position of the furling line block or fairlead closest to the furling drum.

Furling line tension -- Furling line should always be under tension when the sail is being unfurled. Leading the line through a ratchet block mounted aft of the operator is usually a big help.

Furling line jam -- there should not be so much line on the drum that it binds against the drum cover when fully wound for any particular sail. Start with the sail rolled up. There should not be more than 3 wraps on the drum when the sail is tightly furled with the sheets wrapped around it twice. If you cannot get enough line on the drum to completely unfurl the sail, then the line you are using is too large. Reduce line size or, remove the core in the forward third of a braided line. "Coring" the line will reduce the amount of space it takes up and cause it to lie flatter on the drum. This should be done in all furling installations using standard braided line, as it reduces fouling and overrides while still giving you a full diameter line in the cockpit. Some systems, notably Hyde and Stearns, are best suited for wire/rope furling lines in many applications. (See Accessories)

If you are experiencing trouble with your Hyde system that is not related to any of those items above, it is usually one of the following problems:

System doesn't rotate smoothly – With reduced backstay tension and no tension on the furling line, grab the drum and rotate the system by hand. If it feels rough or bumpy it is time to replace the Terminal End bearings, torque nuts, and oil seals

Hard to furl – If you've already checked the Terminal Ends (above) then it's time to check the halyard swivel. Lower the sail and rotate the top of the Halyard Swivel while holding the bottom. It should rotate smoothly and easily. If not, you need to replace the Halyard Swivel bearings. Also be sure to check the white delrin bushings in the top and bottom of the halyard swivel. Make sure that they are firmly in place and that they fit tightly against the rod. If they are sufficiently worn they can allow the Halyard Swivel to cock to one side. This will increase the effort needed to furl. If these bushings are missing then there will be metal on metal contact between the Halyard Swivel and the luff rod. This can cause damage by scoring the luff rod. In either case they will need to be replaced.

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